On the menu at Roses Cocina, new wave Tex-Mex cuisine from Hotel X

On the menu at Roses Cocina, new wave Tex-Mex cuisine from Hotel X

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Name: Cocine Roses
Contact: 111, boul. des Princes, 2nd floor, rosescocina.ca, @roses.cocina
Piece: Exposure
Owners: Brandon Marek and Michael Kimel (Harlo Entertainment) and Adrian Niman
Cooks: Executive Chef Adrian Niman (Rasa, Sara), Executive Chef Sean Usher (The Gabardine, Food Dudes)
Accessibility: Fully Accessible

The food

In 2020, Toronto-based private equity firm Harlo Entertainment added Hotel X to its food and beverage portfolio, alongside places like Mimi Chinese, Planta and Kasa Moto. Then Covid hit. Fast forward more than two years and the first of the hotel’s three new restaurants, Roses Cocina, is finally up and running serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Two other spots should open in the coming months.

Chief Adrian Niman

Roses Cocina is the band’s ode to Tex-Mex. “It’s refined North American, with an emphasis on Mexican flavors,” says Niman. Some dishes, like chicken wings in agave barbecue sauce, are more American comfort food with a Mexican twist. Others, like a dried citrus hamachi tostada, are more traditional plates south of the border. “Everything has a twist,” says Niman. “And everything is homemade, even the puff pastry and the brioche.

Here is the aforementioned tostada. For this, tender pieces of yellowtail are served with tomatillo, cucumber, avocado, jalapeño, red onion and aji amarillo. $26.
The sausage rolls are from Texas-share via Tijuana. They are made with chorizo ​​and c with cilantro mustard and tomatillo salsa. $17.
“Since Rasa, all of my restaurants have had to have a chopped salad with a crunchy element,” Niman says. This one gets its crunch from blue tortilla crumbs, its creaminess from avocado, chipotle ranch, cotija and jack cheeses, and its salad from romaine, cabbage and halved cherry tomatoes. $18.
This plate of blackened beets (served with poblano cream, tajín, lime and pecans) was inspired by Niman’s travels to Tulum. They serve a similar dish at his favorite restaurant, Hartwood. $13.
Tuna aguachile is neither traditional Mexican nor American. It’s simply the very sophisticated version of Niman on the dish. Here, he made a tea made from hibiscus flowers, soybeans and kombu, then mixed with chipotle to flavor raw fish. A traditional aguachile, by comparison, would cure prawns with lime, cilantro, and onion. $22.
This fried chicken is pure South American comfort on a plate. $30.
This prime rib is coated in a homemade adobo marinade (annatto paste, vinegar, chipotle paste) before being vacuum sealed and left to cook sous vide for 16 hours. It is then finished with a glaze of the braising liquid, cocoa, coffee and molasses. Served with mashed sweet potatoes and fresh beets. $75.
“You can’t really top the fajitas, they’re excellent!” Flour tortillas, grilled meats, grilled onions and peppers… what’s not to love? So instead of reinventing fajitas, we just improved the quality of the meat,” says Niman, who uses Snake River wagyu picanha as his protein staple. $85.
Pastry chef Jeroen Van Helvoirt uses yuzu rather than standard lemons for this meringue pie. And that’s not the only change – the crust is made of pretzels. $13.
Cherry cheesecake is topped with vanilla cream and served with cherry-pink snow. $13.
The drinks

Beverage director Ben Kingstone (mother, head butcher) has built a terrific cocktail program, including draft and barrel-aged cocktails, and a slew of homemade infusions – think avocado-infused tequila and even Hennessy VS truffle). The infused liqueurs, however, aren’t for straight sipping – they’ve been crafted with particular cocktails in mind.

The Sayulita is one of the carbonated cocktails on tap. It’s a blend of lemongrass-infused Moneybag vodka, Tanqueray gin, cucumber-infused dry sake, salted coconut, and rosewater, mint, and club soda cordial. $19.
Roses also hopes to build an enviable tequila collection with smaller producers that you can’t find at the LCBO. They will offer two types of tastings: a family tasting (three options from the same distillery) or a horizontal tasting (three reposados ​​or añejos, for example, from different distillers). A flight is accompanied by sangrita (fresh tomato juice), an orange segment and agave sugar and cricket. Various prices.

The sun-drenched room offers postcard-perfect views of Lake Ontario and the Toronto Islands. And when the patio opens, it will be able to accommodate an additional 50 people.

Niman (left) and co-owner Brandon Marek

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